The Mango.
By Chef Jason Peru
The Mango is a fruit which is indigenous to the Indian subcontinent. It is a member of the Anacardiaceous family and is a distant relative of the pistachio and cashew trees. The English word “mango” originated from the Tamil word “maangai” with a cross influence of Portuguese renamed it to “manga”. A pundit once told me that the Indians would offer the mango to the Englishmen as alms and would say “ manga ” which for them meant “take this” in broken Tamil . However the ending of the “o” was probably an anglicized addition due to exports of mangoes into England.
Mangoes were brought to England and Europe after the English occupied India in 1800’s. They were brought to Brazil and the West Indies in the 1700’s with exploration of the area, and to Florida in the late 1800’s.
Based on its vast travel and exportation history, Mangoes have been quite a predominant fruit here in Trinidad & Tobago. It proves to be a sweet and delectable snack for all ages, whether in a child’s lunch kit, made into a sumptuous sweet and tangy mango chow or even made into the finest culinary preparations. As a kid I couldn’t have helped not to greedily rub the mango pith all over my face after eating it and letting it dry until my face was tainted with that mango smell. The mango grows at the end of a long, string like stem with sometimes two or more fruits to a stem. The fruits are 2 to 9 inches long and may be kidney shaped, or sometimes round. They range in size from 8 ounces to around 24 ounces. The leathery skin is waxy and smooth, and when ripe entirely has pale green or yellow marks with slight red, according to the specie. Once peeled, a bright yellow hue is reveled with a soft yet minimal fibrous texture and once you sink your teeth into its luscious flesh like body, bursting sweet mesmeric juices run amass upon your palette. It is this sensation that creates that excitement during mango season here in our twin Island. As a chef I look forward to when the trees at Fanatic Studio are layered with all different types of mangoes varying from sizes and species. It is this time particularly, that I enter a vivacious gastronomic zone and think of all the drinks, desserts and savory preparations that can be done with these mangoes.
The flowering buds of this fruit can be seen ever so presently around Christmas time, and the fruit itself begins to ripe at around Easter time into the dry season. The ‘Mango Season’ continues for many months later. The tree can grow up to 130 feet tall with a radius of about 33 feet with anchoring roots that permeate deep within the soil with depts exceeding 20ft. All mango trees require a frost free environment to grow as the tree thrives upon a warm and sunny climate. There branchy outstretched arms provide great parameters of shade especially in the hot sun and of course most of us reading this now can remember vivid memories of playing hide and seek and “ stick em up ”while climbing a mango tree in your yard.
As you may be aware there are numerous species of mangoes throughout the world. These different types or species all result from different grafting methods or mixed breeds of the fruit. Here in Trinidad we enjoy a myriad of different types of mangoes; Long mango, Rose, Hog, Calabash, Manzanilla, Douxdoux, La Brea Gyul, Turpentine, Mangotine, Juile, Graham and Starch just to name a few- are all favorites.. There was one such instance where I actually used Hog mango to make the same desert that I am sharing with you today.. I developed a spin on the mango cobbler and it was grand slam with the chefs of Fanatic Kitchen Studio. It was there orgasmic facial reactions and satiating mouths that gives me that endorphin rush when creating any dish for someone, especially if it is for someone whom you love. I believe any chef would attest to this when I say that; Cooking is more of a tactile approach. When we transfer our feelings, expressions and emotions into our food we channel all these aspects via our hands and through this we ourselves become part of the dish we prepare.
It is imperative to note that the flavor and texture of a mango results from different growing conditions. Fox example, mangoes that tend to have a great intake of hard water tend to be more fibrous than one that is cultivated with softer water. In addition the quality of the fruit is based on the scarcity of fiber and minimal turpentine flavor that is mostly present in a lot of mangoes today.
On the nutritional side, mangoes contain essential vitamins and dietary minerals. It possess a small percentage of Vitamin B and has antioxidant vitamins A, andC which are integral ways for boosting your immune system. In addition it was discovered that the skins of the fruit are immensely high in phytonutrients which help to fight diseases in our bodies.
One more important fact to note is that mangoes are actually the National fruit of India, and hence it is used very widely there as it is here in Trinidad when its leaves are used in ceremonial purposes for Hindu Prayers and weddings. I also learned at the Mango Festival which was held in Trinidad late 2013 that mango skins are being recycled into something called “ mango paper ” for stationary use. How versatile and innovate this fruit proves to be.
But amongst all that, Mangoes will forever be an item that best pleases our appetite. Whether it is used to make delectable desserts like a mango tart, or made into a sumptuous mango chow, or pickled to make Indian favorites like Mango Amchar or even curried mango, it stands out as a fruit that has been around for over 300 years and continues to dominate the agricultural landscape as well as fulfilling its use both in the kitchen as well as domestically.
Here is an interesting twist to a Mango Cobbler but instead substituting Apples instead for mangoes.
Triple Sec Mango Cobbler
8 Mangoes, peeled and sliced, about 6 to 8 cups ( Julie or Hog )
¾ cup Triple Sec
¾ cup sugar, divided, plus more for dusting
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 ½ cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
½ Tsp Nutmeg
½ Cup Chopped Almonds
12 tablespoons (1 ½ sticks) cold unsalted butter, plus 2 tablespoons for skillet
Heavy cream, for brushing
Heat the oven to 375 degrees F.
In a large bowl add the Mangoes, Triple Sec, ¼ cup sugar, cornstarch, and cinnamon, nutmeg and mix well to coat the peaches evenly; set aside.
Prepare the Cobbler dumplings:
Into food processor add the flour, ½ cup sugar, baking powder, and salt. Cut 12 tablespoons (1 ½ sticks) butter into small pieces. Add it to the flour mixture and pulse until the mixture looks like wet sand. Add chopped Almonds. Mix just until the dough comes together. Don’t overwork; the dough should be slightly sticky but manageable.
In a 10-inch cast iron skillet over medium-low heat, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Add the Mangoes and cook gently until heated through, about 5 minutes. Drop the dough by tablespoonfuls over the warm mangoes. There can be gaps, the dough will puff up and spread out as it bakes. Brush the top with some heavy cream and sprinkle with some sugar; put it into the oven on a baking sheet to catch any drips. Cook for 40 to 45 minutes until the top is browned and the fruit is bubbling.
** Chef’s Notes –
A Scoop of Your Favorite Ice Cream can be added right atop your cobbler.
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